EGG SHELL CALCIUM FOR VEGGIE GARDEN

Friends,

Many of us are hardening off or planting our tomato plants. As you can see we have been saving our egg shells to give our plants a good calcium boost. Not only are these great for tomatoes, but the are also great for your peppers and eggplant as well.

One of the biggest issues for the beginner gardener is a calcium deficiency in the soil. This typically results in bottom rot. Bottom rot is those nasty looking black masses at the bottom of your tomatoes.

Here is what I do with a few variations:

When we break our eggs for breakfast, we rinse them and set them aside to dry. Some folks will go one step further and bake them dry in a low setting oven. I skip this step, but if you plan on feeding your egg shells back to your chickens, go ahead and bake them dry.

Next I crush them in my hands until I get the consistency in the upper left pan.

If you have a mortar and pestle use this to grind the shells into a powder. This could be a little work, but consider it therapy because you will be working some muscles you might not have used in a while. If not, you can use a blender to grind them into a powder.

I then store them in an old coffee can until ready to use. Speaking of coffee, some folks will add used, dry coffee grounds to the powder.

When I transplant my tomato plants, I add a small handful of egg shell powder to the hole and mix it in real good. I then add another handful to top dress around each plant every few weeks during production.

Although egg shells have an abundance of calcium carbonate, they also offer dozens of other micro-elements. Some folks are even using eggshell powder as a dietary supplement. If you want additional information on this topic, do a little research in your favorite search engine.

As always, feel free to share this with others. It may save them a little grief in dealing with bottom rot.

Happy Growing My Friends

THE BUCKET LIST

The Bucket List

Before you go thinking that this article is about a list of things to do before you die, let me set the record straight. This list is about all of those creative uses for those plastic 5-gallon buckets we see all over the place.

Each year, millions of plastic buckets end up in landfills. Again, I go back to the concept that America is the most wasteful country in the world. This list serves as a thought stimulator so you can go out and save some of these buckets from landfills and reuse them for practical, everyday tasks.

Before we look at some of these practical uses, let’s take a look at where you can get these buckets for FREE. If you go to your local home improvement center, you can buy them for nearly 5-dollars apiece. Why would anyone spend good money on something you could get for free? Some things I will never understand. You will also find some of the sources listed below will charge a dollar or two for buckets. I expect most of them will soon begin charging for their buckets as well.

When I refer to 5-gallon buckets, I use this term as a generality. You can find buckets in a variety of sizes to include 5-gallon, 3 gallon and two gallon. You can also find metal buckets which are suitable for a variety of other tasks and projects.

These days, many products come packaged in plastic buckets. Commercial painters typically buy their paint in these 5-gallon buckets. Seek out some of these painters and see if they will save some of them for you. These buckets can be used for many uses, but are not suitable for those tasks associated with any type of food products.

Restaurants are another great source of free buckets. Restaurants receive many products in bulk in these plastic buckets. Talk to local restaurant owners to see if they will save some of them for you. They typically throw them away and would most likely save them for you. These are food grade buckets and good for just about all practical uses.

Bakeries are the ole gold mine when it comes to buckets. They receive many products to include icing in the buckets. Again talk to local bakeries to have them save some of them for you. These are food grade buckets as well.

Metal buckets are becoming more difficult to find, but you can still find them by checking with businesses that use petroleum or chemicals in smaller quantities. These have a few practical purposes.

When I first started hunting for plastic buckets, I had a very difficult time in actually getting them. I went to local supermarket bakeries and asked on a regular basis. I was regularly told that they didn’t have any. On one occasion, I even saw a stack of buckets sitting behind the counter and was told they didn’t have any. I then realized that they were saving them for someone else. I had an abundance of blackberries on the property and asked the ladies if they liked wild blackberries. They said they loved them and I told them that if they saved some buckets for me, I would bring them some fresh berries. Well this worked out great and I got plenty of buckets. I have even traded fresh eggs for buckets.

OK, so know let’s take a look at some practical uses of these buckets.

BULK FOOD STORAGE—We use 5-gallon buckets for many of our long term food storage needs.  We purchase 20"X30" mylar pouches, use oxygeb absorbers and seal them in the buckets. The buckets allow for stacking for better storage and add protection from rodents.
STORE ROOT CROPS—Potatoes, sweet potatoes, etc… can be stored in buckets, but be sure to cut plenty of 2 inch vent holes in the buckets to let them breath. Line the bucket with an old pillow case, fill with potatoes and put on the lid for storage.

KITCHEN COMPOST BIN—Drill several small holes in the lids of a 2-gallon bucket. Use this bucket under your kitchen sink for compostable kitchen waste. We typically shed some paper or cardboard and place this in the bottom. We then add coffee grounds and filters, crushed eggshells, vegetable scraps, peelings and clean torn up paper to the bucket. Every few days, we take it to the compost bin, rinse it out and start all over again. DO NOT add any animal fats, skins or proteins to your compost.

USED KITCHEN OIL BIN—Use a 2-gallon bucket to save and dispose of your used cooking oil. Ensure the oil has cooled before you pour it into the bucket. Used oil can be used for emergency oil lamps during power failures. Watch for our feature on making emergency oils lamps. You can also mix your used cooking oil with citronella oil for outdoor oil lanterns to extend your burn time. If you find yourself with excessive amounts of used cooking oils, talk to a local restaurant owner about adding it to their oil/grease disposal.

MOP BUCKET—Many mop ringers will attach right to a 5-gallon bucket.

RECYCLING BINS—Buckets are great for small quantities of recycling materials. Use a separate bin for crushed plastic, aluminum, metal, paper, cardboard, glass, etc… Don’t forget to compost whatever materials you can use.

LAUNDRY PRE-SOAK—Use a plastic bucket filled with warm soapy water to presoak greasy or dirty clothing.

HARVEST BUCKET—We use the smaller 2-gallon buckets as harvest buckets. Periodically and with certain items we will use 3 or 5-gallon buckets. These are great to bring your fresh produce in from the garden. Use can also tie a rope to your bucket and use them to harvest fruit from your fruit trees. If you use a ladder to harvest your fruit, the rope allows you to safely lower the bucket to the ground before climbing down the ladder.

HONEY STORAGE—If you are a beekeeper, use these free food grade buckets to store your honey prior to bottling it.

BEE FEEDER—Use a 2-gallon bucket as a top feeder for your beehives. Poke about a dozen holes in the center of the lid using a push pin. Fill the bucket with your syrup and replace the lid. Remove the outer cover of your hive and invert the bucket centered on the opening in your inner cover. Replace the outer cover and place a brick on top of it.

CHRISTMAS YARD LIGHTS—Drill a hole in the bottom for the power cord. Remove any labels. Fill the bucket with one or two strings of mini Christmas lights. Shape the lights to fill the bucket. Put the lids back on and plug in the lights. Place these along walkways, driveways, or in flower beds. Use a single color for each bucket. Red and green are naturally the most popular.

HOSE CADDY—Cut a piece of scrap 1X6 piece of wood and screw the wood though the bottom of the bucket and mount it directly on the fence or fence post about 3 feet above the ground. Wrap your hose around the bucket. Use the inside of the bucket to store your sprinklers and nozzles.

CHARCOAL STORAGE—Use 5-gallon buckets as water proof storage bins for your charcoal. In our case, we make our own charcoal for grilling in bulk and use the buckets to store our charcoal. See my feature on how to make your own lump charcoal.

PET FOOD STORAGE—Plastic buckets are ideal for storing dry pet foods. If you typically buy dry food in large quantities, multiple plastic buckets will keep the food dry and critter proof. We use buckets to store cracked corn, oats and feed for our chickens as well.

EGG BASKET—We use 2-gallon buckets to collect eggs from our chickens each day.

DRIP BUCKET—We drilled two 1/16th inch holes in the bottom of 5-gallon buckets to use as drip irrigation buckets. These are great for raised beds, small patch veggies, fruit trees, berry bushes and flower beds. We have found it takes in excess of 30 minutes to deliver 5 gallons of water to our target area.

STEPPING STONE MOLD—Cut 2 inches from the bottom of a bucket. Ensure this cut is as level as possible. Fill the bottom with a single layer of pea gravel. Mix a small batch of ready mix concrete and fill to the top. Pat the mixture down with a 2x4 to remove any bubbles and level. Cover the mold with a damp cloth and allow to set for at least 24 hours. Flip the mold over and brush away excess concrete from the stones. You will need to experiment with timing due to temperature and humidity conditions. Once you perfect your timing, you can cut multiple molds to make many stepping stones at a time.

PIPE CADDY—Cut the bottom out of two 2-gallon buckets and remove the handles. Screw the buckets so the openings are parallel with the ground and spaced between 4-6 feet apart. Slide metal and PVC pipes into your new pipe caddy for easy storage.

BUCKET GARDEN—Buckets are perfect to grow vegetables for those of you without adequate garden space. This includes folks with small backyards or only a balcony. Drill several small holes in the bottom to allow for adequate drainage. Fill the bottom with 2 or 3 inches of gravel or small stones. Fill the bucket with good potting soil up to about 2 inches from the top. Add your seed or plants, water and watch them grow.

GARDEN TOOL CADDY—Cut the bottom out of a 2-gallon bucket and remove the handle. Screw the bucket to a fence post about four feet above ground level with the openings facing up and down. Insert your rakes, shovels, hoes, etc… to keep them in one place. You can also use this caddy in your shed, garage or workshop.

WEEDING BUCKETS—we use two buckets to weed the garden and flower beds. One bucket is used to sit on and the other as a weed receptacle.

COMPOST TEA DISPENSER— Drill a hole in the bottom side of the bucket and attach a female hose connector in this hole. Drill a hole in the top side wall on the opposite end of the bucket and attach a male hose connector. Seal around the connectors with silicone. Add compost to a mesh bag and place inside the bucket. Place lid on the top. Connect hoses and fill bucket with water. Let compost steep for about 15 minutes and turn water back on and water your plants and vegetables with your compost tea.

HOMEMADE STAIN—We collect black walnuts that are over ripe. After the husk has turned black, we put them in a five gallon bucket and fill it with water. We let this sit for about a week. We remove the walnuts and have a homemade stain for a variety of simple wood projects. Note: wear rubber gloves to avoid staining your hands.

CHICKEN FEEDING SYSTEM— Cut or drill four one inch holes around the base of a 5-gallon bucket. After cutting or drilling these holes, cut the top of the hole to form a triangle shaped hole. Place an 18 inch plastic planter base on a cinder block. Place the bucket on top of the planter base and fill with chicken feed. Snap on the lid and you have an automatic chicken feeder. When the feed is low in the planter base, they will peck at the hole and release more food.

ANIMAL WATER STATION— We use ours primarily for our chickens, but also use them to provide our bees water. You could use these for dogs or cats as well. Drill four ½ inch holes as close to the top rim of the bucket as possible. Place an 18 inch planter base on a LEVEL cinder block. Fill the bucket with water and snap on the lid. Invert the bucket and place on the planter base. The water level in the planter base will level out with the drain holes and create a vacuum in the bucket. As the water is drawn from the planter base, water will flow to the fill line again. You will periodically need to wash the bucket and planter base to prevent bacteria and disease.

CHICKEN NESTING BOXES— Cut a 1x6 piece of scrap board to fit in the bottom of the bucket. Screw the board through the bucket to the wall of your coop at a height of about 18 inches above the ground. The bucket will be mounted sideways on the wall. Screw a piece of scrap 1x4 board to the front of the bucket. Fill the bucket will some straw and wait for the chicks to start laying.

OUTDOOR BUTT CAN—Fill a 2-gallon bucket with sand and use as an outdoor butt can or ashtray. Empty as needed.

GARDEN MOOD LIGHTS—Remove label and handle from a 2-gallon bucket. Procure a garden solar light. Remove the stake from the solar light. Trace the diameter of the light below the top of the light onto the lid of the bucket. Cut the lines you traced on the lid with a utility knife. Wear gloves when cutting the lid. Place the solar light in the cut opening and seal with chalking or silicone. Place the lid back on the bucket. Place the bucket in a sunny spot in the garden and enjoy. For additional effect, you can fill the bucket half way with water colored by food coloring. Be sure the water level is well below the bottom of the solar light when the lid is put back on. These lanterns are also great for camping. You can also make a jack-o-lantern using the same concept. Simply paint the bucket orange and cut out your jack-o-lantern.

CAR WASH—I use two buckets for washing cars. One bucket is used as my actual washing bucket and the other is used upside down as a step stool to reach the top of the car.

TRASH BIN—Keep one in your shed, shop or garage for small trash and debris collection.

SHOP RAG BINS—Use one bucket for clean shop rags and one for dirty rags.

EXTENSION CORD STORAGE—Cut a hole in the bottom of the bucket large enough for the male end of the cord to fit through and pull enough cord through to loop back inside the top of the bucket. The male end is the end that plugs into the wall. Coil your cord inside the bucket leaving the center hollow. Pull the cord from the bucket when you need it and coil it back up when you are done with the job. The hollow center can be used to put a drill or other small tools as you carry them to where you are doing the work.

TOOL BUCKET— Use a 5-gallon bucket to carry hand tools to where you needs to use them. You can purchase or make caddies that fit around a bucket to expand this capability.

SHELF SUPPORTS FOR SHED OR WORKSHOP— Use 5-gallon buckets as supports for shelving in your shed, garage or workshop. You can use plywood, but I prefer to use two 1x6 boards measuring 6 feet long. I screw the boards right to the bucket tops. You can stack these about four high. I don’t recommend going any higher unless you fill the buckets with sand for stability.

TRUCK BIN—Keep a bucket in the bed of your pickup truck at all times. Tie or strap the bucket down. Use this bucket for tie straps, rope and other odds and ends. Be sure to snap the lid on to keep rain water out. You will find yourself using this bucket for lots of smaller gadgets.

BOAT BUCKET--Keep a bucket with a lid in your boat. You will find many uses for your bucket to include using it for dry stowage for those valuables you do not want to risk getting wet. They make great bait buckets as well as nifty lunch boxes and garbage buckets. Buckets are also great for bailing water if necessary.

CANOE BUCKET—Use 5-gallon buckets to protect food, clothing and valuable from water on canoe trips. Be sure to secure the lids on the buckets and tie the buckets to the canoe.

FISHING BUCKET—Buckets are great for keeping your catch for brief periods of time. Fill the bucket with water to keep your fish alive a little longer.

CAMP BUCKETS—Buckets have many uses for camping. Pack food items in buckets and store non perishable items in these buckets during the camping trip. They will keep your food dry and inaccessible to smaller critters. Buckets are perfect stools to use around the campfire. You can use buckets to forage for kindling for your campfire. Clean buckets are also great for hauling water and doing dishes. Use a bucket to wash your clothes while camping.

HILLBILLY BEVERAGE COOLER—Place one 12 pack of your favorite beverage in the bottom of the bucket. Fill with ice and add enough water to cover the ice. (Perfect for sitting around that summertime bonfire in the country). Snap on the lid and you have your own front row seat.

MUSIC INTRUMENTS—Use as a makeshift drum. Drill holes in top end and tie strings for a ghetto banjo. Make a bucket bass. More to follow on these makeshift instruments.

TOY STORAGE—Get your child to assist or actually paint their toy storage buckets. These buckets can serve as storage for everyday toys, beach toys and a variety of other kid related items. Look around and use your imagination.

SPORTS EQUIPMENT CADDY—Cut the bottom out of a 2-gallon bucket and screw it right to the wall of a garage or utility room to store sports equipment like baseball bats. Use a 5-gallon bucket to store baseballs or tennis balls.

HALLOWEEN CANDY BUCKET—Paint a 2-gallon bucket orange. Use black paint to make your jack-o-lantern pattern on the bucket. Simple bucket for trick or treat candy collection.

EASTER EGGS COLLECTION BUCKET—Have kids decorate 2-gallon buckets for Easter and have them collect their Easter eggs in them.

TREE HOUSE DUMBWAITER—Tie a rope to a bucket on the ground and hoist food, supplies and tools up to your kids tree house. Using a pulley helps pull the bucket up.

EMERGENCY WINTER CAR KIT—Use a bucket to store your winter emergency car kit supplies. Here is a suggested list to store in you winter car kit: windshield scraper and small broom, flashlight, battery powered radio, extra batteries, water, snack food, matches, candles, metal coffee can, extra hats, socks and mittens, first aid kit with pocket knife, blanket, tow chain or rope, road salt and sand, booster cables, emergency flares, fluorescent distress flag.

EMERGENCY WATER STORAGE—Use ONLY food grade buckets for emergency water storage. Extended loss of public water is probable during severe disaster situations. Experts state that each adult requires one gallon of fresh water per day and need ½ of this amount just for drinking. Some experts recommend storing at least 3 days of emergency water while others recommend up to 21 days. If you plan on storing emergency water supplies please follow the FEMA guidelines here: http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/water.shtm


EMERGENCY TOILET—great for boating, camping or during extended power outages. Line the inside with two plastic bags. As nature calls, remove the lid and do your business then snap the lid back on. When the reaches about ¼ full, tie the bag and dispose of properly. Replace the bag for continued use. Store this bucket in the outdoors for continued use. You can actually buy lids specifically designed to using a 5-gallon bucket as a toilet.

OUTDOOR COOKER—Cut the bottom out of a metal 5-gallon bucket. Cut four equally spaced 1 inch holes around the bottom side wall. Find a round grill grate or cut on from the perforated metal diamond mesh material. Place the bucket on enough paver bricks to extend two inches around the bucket. Load the bucket with hardwood or lump charcoal. Once a good bed of embers are glowing, add the cooking grate. This can be used for grilling, but we use it to preheat water for out outdoor canning operation.


WARNING: Children can fall into a bucket and drown. Keep children away from buckets even with a small amount of liquid. Always empty buckets when not in use or securely place lid on the bucket.


DANGER: Never use plastic buckets for excessively hot items or burning. Never dump hot ashes in any plastic bucket. The only suitable bucket for ashes is a metal bucket with lids.

CAUTION: Please use extreme caution when drilling or cutting buckets for your projects. Wear gloves and eye protection to avoid personal injury.

NOTE: Do not leave empty buckets stored upright outdoors during spring and summer months. If they fill with water, they become prime breeding ground for mosquitoes.

We will be posting pictures in the future—stay tuned. We are also working on future articles about re-purposing everyday items to save them from landfills and save you a few dollars.

If you have any additional uses for these buckets, please post them for everyone can see them. Feedback is always greatly appreciated.

This information is copyrighted material. Please feel free to share it, but if you desire to use this for any commercial purposes, get permission first. This includes re-posting this on any commercially related websites—bottom line is if you are making money off of your website, get permission to use it and give appropriate credit.

John Pearson

Copyright© 2010

POLLINATION ISLANDS--Dogwood Island Update

Dogwood Island Update 10 April 2014

Friends,

Welcome back to the blog.  For those of you just joining us--Welcome.

Today's update is about our "Pollination Islands", specifically Dogwood Island.  Let me step back about 10 months ago when I began to lay in my concept for these Pollination Islands.  I had been researching a few out of the box, but logical gardening practices.  I have always despised buzz words and trendy terms so I won't elaborate any further on some of these concepts.  In fact, I did my research, processed the information and developed my own plan based on my area to work, enhance and nourish. 

Here is a brief summary of how I am proceeding.  Keep in mind that this is a living plan and is subject to multiple modifications as additional research and experimentation are conducted.

The "Front Yard" of the property has been starving from lack of nutrients and sunlight during the summer months.  I began looking at potential possibilities with this wasted space.  For the last several years, I have been getting free wood chips and horse manure from the Hiawassi College stables.  Every 2-3 days, they have filled my hillbilly trailer with nearly two cubic yards of this future compost.  After collecting enough for all of our raised beds, I began to realize that it was time to step outside of the box.

I looked at all of the trees in the front yard and figured out how I could connect a series of trees by building organic matter between them.  I began dumping the manure/wood chip mix between the trees and created 7 living pollination islands.  Each of these are unique due to location and available sunlight during the summer.  All of these trees produce a great shade canopy so growing in these islands would require some research as well as good old fashioned trial and error.  Those of you who know me, know that I am not afraid to experiment and fail as long as I am willing to try it again.

We are naming the islands with appropriate names due to some unique feature.  The picture above is my next island to begin.  You can see  a lot in the picture if you look close.  Fist, the white blossoms you see are from the dogwood tree.  She is displaying her spring colors.  Next you may see the 25 foot centerpiece in the center.  This is a dead fall tree from my neighbors property.  I used my hillbilly workout plan and side-stepped this tree nearly 150 yards by alternating left to right.  Works a few muscles I haven't used in a while.  The centerpiece will also provide a natural habitat for many lifeforms we might not be able to see.

The trailer in the background is loaded with two cubic yards of year old mulch.  I am getting this for free as well and they even load it for me.  I use my hillbilly workout plan to haul mulch to those areas I am currently working.  I use two 5-gallon buckets loaded by hand to move this mulch.  While in transit to the final dumping area, I do a variety of upper body excercised with these buckets that weight about 20 lbs each.  

Next you might see 5 canes of bamboo leaning against the mighty white oak.  This will become a trellis experiment for cucumbers.  I will share more about this concept as I continue to develop my game plan.  I would recommend for folks to look around your local areas for property that has bamboo.  If you can contact the owner, ask for some cuttings.  In a few years, I will be able to harvest enough bamboo to do some trading and bartering for it.  If you are asking for cuttings or transplants, be sure to offer some home grown/ home made goodies as a token of good faith.

Feel free to ask questions.  I will attempt to answer any questions you might have.  If you think of anyone who might appreciate the journey we are sharing, please sharing this blog with them.  We also have a Facebook page under Frugal D. Farmer.

Happy Trails My Friends.

Aging Some Old Hickory Branches

Taking a break from the mighty oak and doing some other projects.

As many of you know, we continue to ween ourselves from the instant gratification mindset. Today, my primary focus is towards a more long-term, self-sustaining future. When I get out and get involved with the natural processes, I begin to learn how each of these little micro-environments are all connected and can sustain life if it is all in balance.

April 27th, 2011 was the infamous day of the massive tornado outbreak. We had one skip over the house, but took out many old hardwoods on my property and our neighbor's property.

One of these casualties was a beautiful old hickory in the pasture beyond the woods. While cutting this tree, I actually visualized today. I mean I knew I would be able to put these branches to use sometime in the future. I left these branches exposed to the elements in the treeline of the woods on the property. During this time, the natural decay process occurred and aged these branches for me.

After I moved the branches from under a blanket of leaves, the chickens had a nice buffet waiting on them. I guess the whole point I am trying to make is that I am, in fact, living the dream and I am seeing exactly where I fit into building a thriving environment on this property.

I will be putting these aged hickory branches to good use in the near future and will allow the natural decay continue.

Birdhouse Gourd Planter

Friends,

As we continue on this journey, more of nature is being revealed to us.  I have been researching, exploring and creating some unconventional growing techniques for this growing season.  In this pic, I am growing some aloe vera in a home-grown birdhouse gourd.  I drew a design for the opening and used an Exacto knife to carefully cut the opening.  Sometimes you just have to think outside of the pot.

I will be doing some other unique growing methods as we progress through this growing season.  Make sure you subscribe to get updates.

Frost Danger--Plum Tree Protection

Greetings Friends,

Today is the 23rd of March, 2013.  Tonight the temperature is projected to drop to 30F.  As you can see one of our plum trees has enjoyed the last week or so of mid temperatures.  It has blossomed about 2-3 weeks early.  I needed to protect this plum because Lynne will be producing home-made plum jelly this year.

This will be a step-by-step post, but use your own creativity to come up with your own solutions.  I learn from others on projects like this, but always modify it to my own needs and available materials.

CLICK ON ANY IMAGE FOR A SLIDESHOW OF THIS POST

The first step for most projects is to figure out how you will accomplish the task and what materials you will need.  As you can see from this image, I intentionally left out a tarp, hammer and stakes.  I do this because I don't want you to follow what I do all of the time.  I feel it is CRITICAL for each of us to take examples, analyze it and adapt it to our own.  As you can see I am using bamboo.  I am blessed that I have my own, sustainable bamboo groves for projects like this.  If you don't have your own grove, find one and ask the property owner for some cuttings.  Most will be willing for you to harvest all you like.  If you do this, take an offering for trade.  Home-canned goodies always seem to do the trick.

Here you can see me trimming the tips of the bamboo with some heavy-duty garden shears.  I cut the tips to keep it from punching through the sheet and tarp.

Next, I begin to wicker the bamboo into the main branches of the tree.  I will put one near the center and four around the perimeter.

I use the roll of jute cord shown in the photo above.  I picked up a big roll which is considered bailing twine.  I wrap and tie the bamboo to the branch.

 Here is a closeup of hoe I tie the bamboo to the branch.

I try to find a bamboo stick that will protrude about 2-3 inches from the tips of the branches.

 For those bamboo sticks that are too long, I flip it over and measure where I need to cut the stick.

I use loppers to cut the bamboo stick to length

I continue the process of laying in the bamboo to support the sheet and tarp.

I extended this one to accommodate the branches above this one.

Another view of adding the bamboo.

Almost ready to add the sheet.

I use a length of bamboo and allow the wind to help me drape the sheet over  the bamboo.

I know you were wondering my I had clothespins in the 2nd photo right?  I use them to hold the sheet in place while I add the heavier tarp over the top of the sheet.  These will stay in place while I am protecting the tree.

I stretch the tarp out and tie jute cord to the corner grommets.  I also pound some stakes in the ground and tie off the cord.

Here, you can see how I tied it down.

OK, so now you may have some questions.  Please feel free to ask in the comment section.

If you think others can use this information, please share the link to our blog.  If you want future updates, be sure to subscribe to our blog.

2-cycle gas/oil mix ratios

Whether you need to figure out the fuel/oil mix for your 2-cycle chainsaw or your string trimmer, trying to figure out how much oil to use can be mind boggling.

Do yourself a favor and print this chart and keep it in your shed, garage or workshop. Many different manufactures have different ratios and sometimes even the same manufactures have different ratios for different equipment.

Extend the life of your equipment and keep it performing at optimal levels.

As always, be sure to share this image. FB is limiting my posts and only about 10 percent are receiving updates like this. Also, go to our blog and subscribe to updates, I am weening myself away from FB.

Happy Trails My Friends

New Growth and New Beginnings

Friends,

Take time to marvel at the beauty of spring.

This time of year represents

new growth and new beginnings.

Temperature is forecasted for 23F on Tuesday evening.  Will protect this early bloomer with bamboo and sheets.  Gotta save the plums for plum jelly.

Falling a mighty White Oak.

Will add more pics and a narrative as soon as time permits.

Welcome to Spring

Garden Peas

Garden peas are breaking ground.

I planted these in my "Pollination Islands". This island is named "Nikola Island" because this one includes the power pole. The power pole is significant because of Nikola Tesla's significant contribution to today's power distribution systems.

The Pollination Islands are coming along just fine. Will be posting additional pics in the future.

Simplify

Just Talking Crap--Septic Systems 101

Friends,


Something as simple as flushing the toilet isn't significant until it doesn't flush properly.  Most of us who are on a journey towards self-sufficiency either live in a rural area or have plans to do so.  One of the basic facts about rural living is that your waste water is typically piped to a septic system.  Even in municipalities or suburbs, you may have a septic system.  I think every one of us has a little knowledge about these systems, but how many of us really know how they work?

Even if you have a waste water system that goes to a water treatment plant, this post should be beneficial for you as well.  The next property you live on may have a septic field.  After living on our property for 5 years, we had to call out the septic pumper truck Friday.  We had already tried household remedies for a stopped up line to no avail.  Our biggest fear was that our septic system had failed and would need to be replaced.  We were not ready for an $8,000 expense right now to replace it.  Fortunately, we only needed it pumped out.  As it turns out the septic tank pre-dates the 70s and has never been pumped clean.   So, just how does this system work and how often should I get it pumped out?  Great questions.  Since having initial backups with the plumbing, I began a quest for knowledge.  There is some conflicting information out there, but I will attempt to clear up any confusion. Photo by: www.septic-1.com

The 3 main component of a septic system are:  a main line, septic tank, and drain field. Septic systems include plumbing to carry waste from the home to the septic tank.  This is also known as a drainage line or main line.  Sometimes the mainline gets clogged before waste even reaches the septic tank.  When this happens a flexible wire or metal "snake" is used to clear the clog.

The septic tank is next in line.  Waste water enters the tank where it is stored and  allowed to naturally decompose.  These tanks vary is size and construction.  Most tanks will range from 500-2000 gallons.  Most tanks are made of concrete, but also may be made from fiberglass or polyethylene. Solid waste is broken down by bacteria and the processed liquid waste water (effluent) exits the tank to the drainage field.  The tank has an inlet and outlet which typically have a t-fitting or baffle to direct the waste water. The drainage field or leech field is designed to take the processed waste water and return it to the earth.  This water is filtered through percolation which completes the process. Those are the basic components, now lets look at a few more basics.

Image by: www.propump.com

As you can see from the illustration above, waste water enters the septic tank.  This waste is then broken down with bacteria and separated into scum and sludge.  Scum is all of those particles that are lighter than the water.  This includes oils, grease, and toilet tissue.  Sludge is all of those heavier particles that sink to the bottom.  These particles are stored in the tank.  The particles that can't be processed remain in the tank and build up over a period of time.  It is essential for everyone with a septic system to understand what can and cannot be put in the system. General awareness can assist in keeping your system alive and functioning effectively.  There is a lot of misinformation about what can be put in your system.  If you have any doubt about the information presented here, please do some additional research on your own.

Most septic professionals will tell you to never put anything that has not been processed by the human body into the system.  The exception is toilet paper and periodic septic maintenance products.  A healthy and properly functioning system will NOT require any supplements. Now for those things you want to avoid putting in your system.  Some of these are more obvious than others:


-  Dirt or soils of any kind
-  Feminine hygiene products
-  Cooking oils and grease
-  Coffee grounds
-  Food scraps
-  Cigarette butts
-  Anti-septic or anti-bacterial soaps
-  Bleach products
-  Kitty litter
-  Condoms
-  Chemical household cleaning products
-  Painting supplies to include paint thinners and paints
-  Drugs and medications
-  Any other products that are NOT biodegradable



It is important that you educate all family members and house guests that you are on a septic system and those items that can not be processed by your system.  You also need to understand that a garbage disposal is fine for folks on a municipal sewage system, but not recommended for septic systems.  When you have house guests, your waste water flow increases as well and may over task your system. Too much demand and improper maintenance can result in costly repairs or replacement to your system.  When you overload your system, solid waste particles could enter your drain field which could result in failure of your system.  Water conservation and fixing leaks can extend the frequency for maintenance.  Check toilets for leaks by pouring a package of koolaid in each tank.  Wait about an hour and look for color in the bowl.  If the bowl is colored significantly, you may need to replace the flapper. Probably the most often debated question about septic systems is how often it should be pumped out.  Remember that your own pumping schedule will be determined by amount of waste water flow, volume of solids, and capacity of tank.  Although it is not recommended to use a garbage disposal, some folk do.  If a garbage disposal is used, it will significantly increase the amount of sludge in your tank and require more frequent pumping.  The following illustration will help in your own decision for periodic maintenance.  Your local septic pumping company will typically charge based on the thickness of the scum and sludge.  By thickness, they are talking about distance and not consistency.

 Photo by:  entech.com

Keep in mind that your septic system is a living environment.  The live bacteria in your system keeps it healthy and functioning properly.  Take a look around your household and see what chemicals and products may be killing your system.

 As always, I encourage you to share this post with others who may benefit from it.

Seed Starting Basics

Friends,

Years ago, if you wanted to grow vegetables, you had to wait until the danger of frost passed or started your seed in the house or greenhouse.  You could not find those beautiful plants in the corporate garden centers.  Let's step back in time and learn something new. This post is targeted to those of you who desire to start your own seed indoors prior to your last frost date.  I personally do not recommend starting your own seed indoors if this is your first year of growing veggies.  Save some of your heirloom seed this year ans study more about basic plant requirements over the next year.  If you are confident about your commitment to learning, then give it a whirl,  expect some failures and don't give up.

The first step in starting seed indoors is to determine which plants you desire to grow and which are best suited for indoor starting.  Obtain high quality heirloom, heritage, open pollinated, organic seed.  To avoid confusion, I will use the term heirloom seed.  These are seed that have surpassed the test of time and can be saved for future growing.

The primary reason to start your seed indoors is to get a jump on the growing season.  By having your plants mature early, your growing season is extended and your harvest should be plentiful.  Before we proceed, get out a notebook and begin keeping good notes.  Learn the maturity dates for each plant you desire to grow.
Perhaps the most important thing to know when starting seeds indoors is your local average frost date.  Keep in mind that these are average dates.  I found a pretty cool website that allows you to look up your dates by zip code.  http://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-frost-dates/index.php?q=37354&submit=Go  This page show my local area.  Type in your own to learn about your dates.  You will also need to know germination dates and when to transplant into your garden location.  Don't start too early because the plants could become tall and weak. Use a calendar to help with figuring out your specific dates. Photo by picsjpeg.com

I have lots of gardening books dating back to the 1960's that show how to build seed starting trays.  Perhaps next year, I will be able to build some of these for future seed starting years.  For this year, we are starting with plastic seed starting cups placed in a tray that holds water.  You do not need to use these trays, but they are convenient and can be reused. Most garden centers also sell pre-formed peat pots or peat pellets which can be placed directly in the ground, but are one time use.

 I have seen all kinds of containers used for seed starting.  Use your imagination and creativity to find your own solution.  You can make seed tubes from toilet tissue rolls or by cutting and rolling newspaper strips.  You can also save some of those plastic food containers such as milk jugs, water bottles, or butter containers.  Just make sure your homemade containers allow for drainage and won't become soggy.  Plastic containers will need small drainage holes.  

After getting your containers together, you will need a suitable seed starting mix.  It is not recommended to use soil from your garden or property because it compacts too much.  Compacted soil does not allow for adequate aeration or water retention.

This year, I am using a mix of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite.  Many folks call this a growing media.  As you progress on your own journey, you will learn a variety of media you can add to your own mix.  If you do not want to mix your own, you can obtain pre-mixed starting soil from most garden centers.  I use a large rubber tote to mix mine.

Once you add the growing media to the containers, I recommend getting your soil good and moist before adding your seed. I add water to the bottom tray then put the seed containers in the water to allow water to be absorbed from the bottom.  You could also use a plastic dish washing tub for this purpose.  Always use warm water to allow for quicker absorption.

  Once the soil is good and moist, you can add your seed.  Check your seed package and plant your seed accordingly.  Some folks will plant more than one seed per container and thin them out before transplanting.  Once seed is placed in the soil.  top the container off with a little more soil.

You have now started the process of growing your own food with an indoor beginning.  Now you will need to label your containers.  If growing all of the same seed in a flat or other container, use one label per container.  On these labels, make sure you include the type of plant, variety and date started.  You can buy commercial labels or make your own.  Labels should be waterproof so that you can still read them when it come time to put them in the ground.  I use re-claimed plastic Venetian blinds.  I have seen people use strips cut from milk cartons and other liquid vessels.  Make sure you use a permanent marker for your labels.

Congratulations, you have begun the process of life.  Now you need to nurture them into a living, producing plant.  Keep your soil good and moist during the germination process.  Keep the soil warm during the starting process.  Commercial seeding heaters are available at some garden centers, but are expensive.  In the old days, folks would put their seed tray next to a wood burning stove or old radiators.  I have seen a wide variety of heaters over the years.  For smaller batches, I have seen folks use heating pads purchased at drugs stores.  I have even seen folks use a waterbed heater for this purpose.  For larger batches, I have seen folks using an electric blanket with a plastic sheet between the heater and seed trays.  As always, use your own good judgement and common sense.  once roots begin to grow on your seedlings, they need the warmth for best development.

Next, we need to look at lighting options.  I have seen some pretty elaborate lighting and shelving units for seed starting.  These set ups can get expensive.  Lighting is one of those areas you will get a lot of conflicting information.  Old timers always started seed in a southern exposure window if they didn't have a greenhouse.  Today, we have florescent light bars in a variety of sizes.  You can find florescent shop lights at most hardware stores and garden centers.  If you use a light bar set up in a room that doesn't get adequate lighting, consider using chains to raise the light as your seedlings begin to mature.  The idea height above the seedling should be 4-6 inches.  Most experts will say to give them 12-16 hours of light per day.  Because folks have their own way of doing things, feel free to experiment.  Set some near a southern window and try some under the lights.   Make sure you keep good notes so you can continue to learn the process for future years

Photo by: Lowes.com

 After your seedlings develop, you will need to harden them off by allowing them to strengthen before  transplanting them.  While they are indoors, I use a tower oscillating fan.  I start about 10 feet away and move it closer every couple of days.  As the outside weather permits, I move them outside to harden off even more.  Do not subject them to high winds.  If you harden them outside, provide protection from these winds.  While hardening them, back off on watering, but keep them moist.

Each type of plant will be ready for transplant at different times.  Make sure you consider those late winter frosts when transplanting.  If a danger of frost exists, plan on protecting plants with plastic buckets or hot house type set ups.

I highly recommend starting more than you plan to grow in your own garden.  Some folks start twice as many and either give them away or selling them to supplement their income.

If you are looking for more detailed information, consider picking up a book or two on this topic.

I will provide updates when I can.  Good luck and happy growing to ya.

Indoor Seed Starting 2014

Friends,

We have converted the guest bedroom into a production center.  This includes being able to start seed indoors prior to our last frost.

Here are 10 flats of seed cups.

For the beginning vegetable grower

Friends,

Most of us have our garden plans semi-finalized. Some of us even have started seeding indoors in anticipation of the arrival of Spring.

I know we have a lot of folks who want to grow veggies for the first time.

For those of you who are just beginning--welcome. You will enjoy growing food, but it will take a little research and tender loving care on your part.

Here is a quick list of crops (plants) I recommend to start:
1. Lettuce is one of the easy crops to grow. It is also an early cool weather crop.

2. Garden peas are also an early crop. Most peas are vines and will need to be trellised. You can also try some field peas such as black-eyed peas which are a bush type plant.

3. Cucumbers require some type trellising. Great summer salad additive as well as for pickles. Lots of varieties to choose from.

4. Summer squash grows abundantly during the summer. We like the crookneck which is great when pan fried with onions and zucchini. Allow plenty of room for them to spread out.

5. Zucchini is also a heavy producer. Allow room to spread and enjoy the harvest. We enjoy making zucchini bread for the whole year and freezing it.

6. Carrots thrive in sandy type soils but give them a try if you can work the soil deep enough for them. Get these started early in the spring and enjoy.

7. Spinach is an early season crop that can be served fresh or canned. Harvest leaves as the plants begin to mature and continue harvesting.

8. Tomatoes can be started from seed, but I personally do not recommend this for the beginner. Pick up some "transplants" from any local nursery. Buy heirloom varieties and learn to save some seed.

If you have any others you can recommend for the beginner, please feel free to do so.

As always, be sure to share this with others.

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